What should be done if there is a early frost (chance of freezing) prior to the system being winterized?

First; do not shut off the valves on the exterior backflow preventer!

• Shut off the valve in the basement and leave the valves on the backflow preventer in the open position.
• Open the hose bib or threaded plug.
• Turn the clock on to a “manual” cycle.

By shutting the water off, opening the hose bib or plug and running the clock, gravity will drain most of the irrigation system that is above ground level.  This should prevent damage to the backflow preventer and/or the irrigation pipe above ground level.  Underground equipment usually is not affected during an early frost situation.

When we winterize irrigation systems we:

Shut water off: (usually a gate or ball valve located in a basement).  Many times the homeowner shuts the water off and we perform the balance of the winterization without seeing the water shut off device.

Blow compressed air through the irrigation system:  we use a larger sized air compressor that has larger capacity for air volume (CFM’s).  Too much air pressure can damage heads, plastic pipe and valves.   Not enough air volume will not push enough water out of the system.  It is not necessary to blow every drop of water out, in fact if the air compressor is run too long, heat builds up and can damage irrigation components.

Set backflow preventer ports, valves to a winter position:  The various valves and ports on the backflow preventer must be set to a winter position.  “Full Open” or “Full Closed” valves and ports may have water trapped and freeze damage could still occur after compressed air has been used.  If there is a hose bib or threaded plug near the backflow preventer, we either open the hose bib or leave the threaded plug in a “loose” position.

Set clock to winter position:   we usually like to keep electricity to the clock to help reduce condensation damage.  The clock can be put in an “off” position, but could still be left in a “run” position.  Sending electric currents to the electric valves without water in the system has no detrimental effects.

Check rain sensor: newer rain sensors do not require any “winterization”.  Older ones that use a “cup” should be set to a non-freeze position.

When winterized as above we will warranty our work.  After a system is winterized, it is not ready for spring startup.  The backflow preventer and valves have to be set to the startup positions as well as any other threaded plugs or hose bibs.  The in ground valves should also be checked prior to turning the water on for loose bleeders or loose jar caps.

Possible non warranty situations:

1. When we winterize your system we take special care to blow out the system, but if the interior shut-off valve is not shutting off completely (much like a dripping kitchen faucet) water may slowly collect in your exterior pipes and backflow preventer over the course of the winter.  When this water freezes your backflow preventer and pipes may be damaged or destroyed.  This damage will usually not be evident until spring start-up.  This “dripping” usually is not evident during the winterization process.  To fix the problem the shut-off valve will have to be replaced.  Unless the shut-off valve has a warranty this is not a warranty item.
   
   
2. If someone inadvertently opens the shut-off valve during the winter and allows water to enter the irrigation system, we can not warranty this situation.